Rockabilly Rules in Japan OK
- Lori Lee in
Japan November 2008
In 2007 I made my first visit to
Japan and was totally blown away by the people and their countless range
of sub-cultures. Of course the rockabilly scene is of particular interest
to me, and you if you are reading this. The Japanese cats are into
the same music as we are and they have many ways of expressing their love
of rockabilly and all things vintage Americana. If you didn’t catch last
year’s review, please read my Cool Cats Rock Tokyo blog here
www.robot.com.au/Japan_Rockabilly.htm to come up to speed. All I wanted
after that visit was get back to Japan as soon as possible to witness
their kustom auto scene.
Even though I’d like to, I don’t know the
Japanese language, my vocab had grown from six words last year to about
eight this year. Each day I was determined to learn a new word or two, but
it simply didn’t work out that way. Pocket translation guides are of some help, but it makes
communicating slow and complicated, when everything in Japan is fast
paced. That’s what makes the trip an adventure, the challenge of getting
through each day without speaking any English. Surprisingly the rockabilly dudes in clubs and shops speak very
little English, other than obvious words such as ‘Elvis’. Even
though we tap into the same 1950s culture, not being able to talk about it
felt very weird. You can imagine me trying to explain to a Japanese
rocker, my name is Lori Lee (rory-ree) & I come from a rockabilly festival
in Australia called GreazeFest (glee-say-fust).
One Cup of Coffee and a Cigarette
There are thousands of restaurants in
Japan. Everyone eats out. Most restaurants still allow smoking inside
which is a head spin. It is the exact opposite of how our rules are in
Australia. There is no smoking on the street, if you want to smoke you
have to go inside a restaurant, bar or café! The food is simple and tasty,
if a bit unusual. Most day to day restaurants have picture menus, although
interpreting the pictures can be guesswork too. In the very first
restaurant we sat down in, the waiter handed me a scanning wand and showed
me how to order via the bar code beside each menu photo. More traditional
eateries write their menus and prices in Japanese script, so we had to
order via sign language, with two fingers firmly crossed for luck.
They dig vending machines in Japan, there
are around 6 million vending machines – or one per 23 people. Some
restaurants have a vending machine instead of a waiter. You feed your
money into the slot, press a button, get a ticket and two minutes later
you are devouring a hot dish of noodles. As well as the Japanese sashimi,
soups, grills and noodles, we tried the Japanese versions of Italian,
Thai, Chinese and Western cooking, to varying degrees of success. We
spotted a Mexican restaurant in the maze of eateries in Osaka and had a
delicious but compact version of a Mexican meal. The Japanese owner paid
special attention to his Australian guests and our cowboy shirts. After
our meal, he and his chef strapped on guitars and harmonized a delightful
Mexican song at our table, while next to us other Japanese diners were
filming with their mobiles.
You can always get beer anywhere in Japan -
at a restaurant or café, the local 7-11 or of course from a vending
machine. Asahi seems to be the most popular choice. In the early mornings
you could spot the beer being delivered to the eateries by bicycle! The
delivery person straps a small keg to the parcel tray and peddles his way
through the tiny streets.
Order by bar code in Osaka
Studying a 'rockabilly map' for Tokyo
Inside 'Tommy Gun' in Osaka
The rockabilly shops in Japan are totally
hip, stocking some way-cool ranges of clothing, but don’t expect anything
to fit, as their sizes are petite. The vintage stores stock only the best
50s rayon shirts with top notch prices tags to match. In Osaka there are a
handful of vintage shops within the American Mura (American Village)
district, such as Samantha’s Vintage, a rockabilly gal who spoke some
English and told me a story about how she danced with Big Sandy while in
the USA. In Tokyo, the bulk of the cool clothing shops are in Harajuku and
Shibuya, the record stores are in Shinjuku.
You have to keep a sharp eye out for the
store signs, as the shopping areas are a multi level maze of tiny stores.
With space being in short supply, you see the mainstream stores on street
level, but the alternate stores are underground or above ground. What you
would normally recognise as a block of residential units, is actually
filled with compact retail outlets.
One night we stumbled upon a rockabilly
record store, called R’n’R Music Garden, on the second floor in an
apartment block in the back streets of Shibuya. The tiny shop had
thousands of records, all bunched in as tight as possible, from 50s rock’n’roll through to 80s neo rockabilly and modern psychobilly, all
alphabetical, it looked like a completist rockabilly collection,
especially the 45s. The shopkeeper spoke little English, although he knew
rockabilly band names back to front and once we mentioned Australia, he
was quick to ask about the Preston label.
Vinyl Japan record store Tokyo
Crackajacks cd, one of the Aussiebilly choices in Tokyo
At the first ever
GreazeFest in Kingscliff
in 2000, I met ShigeSuganuma from Moon, who published a review of the
GreazeFest in the Japanese magazine, CruisinSupreme. Ten years later I
witnessed one of Shige’s own shows in his homeland of Japan, and what a
great show it was.
This was the 17th Annual Yokohama Hot Rod
Custom Car Show, the biggest of the many shows Moon holds throughout the
year. The location was inside a modern convention centre alongside
Yokohama Bay, certainly the most a-grade setting in which to hold a kustom
Custom Crown from
the 'Various Bogus Guys Car Club'
Lori Lee's photos from
Yokohama Hot Rod Show and more Songs by Japanese rockabilly bands
(see links at end of page)
As we arrived at the show, there was a
queue of thousands steadily making an orderly way into the display area.
Entry price was 3800 Yen or AU$76, making the GreazeFest ticket price a
Thankfully we had advance tickets, so we
bypassed the line up and made our way inside in time to witness the guest
introductions that signal the start of the show. The display area had a
drive-in sectioned off so the guest vehicles can drive into the show, as a
Moon commentator (and an English interpreter) introduces them.
came from the USA and included JamesHetfield and a 53 Buick ‘Skyscraper’
(or Skysklaper); JimmyShine and the SoCal built 57 Chev Gasser (watch it
getting built on his cable tv show); and a gang of bikes from ColeFoster,
Max Schaaf, Jasin Phares, Tom Foster, Mark Drews, John Edwards, Rico
The crowd lining the driveway was eight
deep with a sea of arms in the air holding cameras and all leaning in! I’m
not too tall on the best of days, so I squeezed through to the front
mumbling sumi-masen, sumi-masen (sorry, sorry). This intro-ritual was
exciting and well coordinated, but I had to gulp when Tom Foster gunned
the throttle briefly and his tyre skidded on the polished concrete
surface. I had visions of audience members turning into skittles.
Leaving the formalities behind, I started
to make my way around the show to take some photos before it got too
crowded. As expected, CustomToyotaCrowns featured from the mild to the
wild, plus stock and custom Chevs and Caddys, there was a row of sleds,
vee dubs, muscle cars, street rods, rat rods, pick ups, vans, cool lowrider bikes and model cars.
The stars of the show belonged to the
hundreds and hundreds of motorbikes. Bikes came in all shapes and forms, all with a high
level of style, perfection and finish. Please check the photos in the
youtube movie above.
It occurred to me that the custom
bike culture is far more accessible to the Japanese than the car culture,
presumably due to space limitations. There were so many great looking
machines on show it just made your head spin.
After walking around on
concrete for five hours, we stepped outside to the freezing bayside day
and saw all the streets around the centre lined with more custom bikes!
There were two wheeled wonders blapping up and down the road making the
district come alive with an exciting vibe.
Here's a big gidday to everyone we met at the Yokohama show, people from
all around the globe - France, USA, Mexico, Switzerland, Germany and
Congratulations and thank you to
Shige, Goshu, Nash and all the cats from Moon, who put together an
impressive and outstanding event.
Rockabilly is a healthy scene in
the major cities in Japan and during the Winter, when we were there, the main night of
the week to rock is Saturday. No matter where you are in the world, there
is only one Saturday night per week, so you have to be lucky with your
timing. I wasn’t so lucky on this trip and missed out on seeing the
excellent Yuichi &
The Hilltone Boys (sings like Big Sandy) as I was leaving town that
morning, and then I missed a 'Rockabilly Tournament’ in Tokyo that night,
came down with a heavy dose of the flu. Dang and double dang!
The gig featured The Gretsch
Brothers (two piece), Hot Dog Buddy Buddy (neo trio), The Kool Burns
(psycho trio) and Cutter Knife (neo trio) plus a bunch of djs. Entry was
pricey, as most live shows are in Japan, working out to AU$60 with our
dismal conversion rate, but you did receive a ‘free’ beer! Arigato!
I tried to head to the gig on my own, but
in the dense city that is Tokyo, it was just too chaotic. Japanese give
directions by landmarks and pictures, not street names; have a read of
these translated directions to get to the club:
"Came a footbridge direction and a
10-minute walk to the left, Life, he said and Mark tetraphyllous I see a
supermarket, Starbucks and Namiki bridge intersection difference there is
a point and the like. To life, Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi, Family Mart and
Starbucks and the trees are pontine and exchange points difference. When
it passes life, east the intersection which is called before the police
box difference because there is a point, when the signal it has turning
left, in the left hand the Seibu credit union" etc etc etc.
The following day, I was determined to
catch the leather clad the rock-n-roll-zoku who dance in the street every
Sunday in Harajuku.
I searched for the dancers on my last trip to Japan and frustratingly
couldn’t find them. This year I headed to the renowned Yoyogi Park, where
all types of people gather to hang out or walk to the temple in the park.
I could see families in their best suits, kids in kimonos, Goths, ‘free
hugs’ kids, and many other cos-play looks, but not a rocker in sight!
So I simply hung out and waited attentively on a foot bridge, as thousands
of Japanese people crammed the footpaths going about their Sunday business
(in an orderly way). Finally, I spotted a greaser amongst the crowd and I
quickly set off in his direction. He turned a corner to an open area and
there they were, two dozen rockabillies, clad in head to toe leather,
hanging out, drinking beer and smoking cigarettes.
This custom of street dancing on a Sunday started in the 1970s, when
takenoko-zoku, or ‘bamboo shoot kids’, wore brightly coloured jumpsuits
and danced to their ghetto blasters. Another wave of dancers formed, the
rock-n-roll-zoku, who dressed in leather and sported perfect quiffs. I
remember watching a video of the rock-n-roll-zoku in the early 1980s and
was fascinated by this public display of dancing by the mainly male
rockers. It is even more fascinating to think they have been dancing every
Sunday ever since, an admirable level of dedication.
The custom of performing in the streets of Harajuku gained momentum
through the 1990s and all types of live bands and dancers were turning out
to perform on a Sunday. The noise and the interruption to the flow of
pedestrian traffic caused the police to shut down their activities. But
the rock-n-roll-zoku survived by moving to another location.
On this day, the rock-n-roll-zoku were well equipped for what looked like
a social afternoon. As well as bags of beer and belongings, they also had
a portable generator, a huge speaker box, a cd player, a guitar and a
full-length mirror. There were a few gals in the group, who wore full
skirts and petticoats. No one was dancing when I arrived, they were simply
hanging out as more and more zoku arrived, some who turned up in a 1970s
Eventually the zoku set up their generator and started the music. The
rock-n-roll-zoku men formed a circle and launched into an elaborate dance
routine, mixing up the twist, the teddy boy bop and modern dance jumps and
kicks. When the guitar solo arrived in each song, one of the zoku would
move to the centre of the circle and do a freeform routine, as the rest of
the gang snapped their fingers or clapped along to the beat. At the end of
the solo, he would join the circle again and they’d all launch back into
their twisting, air-guitaring, lyp-synching, shadow-boxing, high kicking
Some of the songs on the rock box were in English and some were Japanese,
such as a Japanese version of Roll Over Beethoven, which had the dancers
going extra-crazy. I was so excited to finally be watching these cats do
their thing and I had to hold myself back from running over and joining
I didn’t gather any video of the day, but a quick search will show up
plenty of youtube videos of these dancers (such as the one embedded here).
In viewing these uploads and comments, it disappoints that not many people
actually ‘get it’ or respect the zoku.
To understand these rockers, it is best to be open-minded to the many ways
the Japanese interpret rockabilly and don’t draw any line in the sand
deciding what is considered cool and what is not. These fans are dedicated
and entertaining, and are ‘doing their thing’ in a very public way.
Here's a quick video taken off youtube, where the cops have a word with
the zoku. For Lori Lee pix, watch the
Yokohama hot rod show movie above.
If you are considering the Yokohama Hot Rod
Custom Car Show as a holiday destination next year or the one after, drop
me a line for more details. Keep an eye on the exchange rate between
Australia and Japan, as during my trip the rate was hopeless, so
everything was expensive. The higher the item price (such as hotels), the
more money you will sacrifice on the conversion. Also keep an eye on Jetstar for when they have their flight sales, most likely the cheapest
part of your trip will be the airfare, sometimes as little as $500 return.
Next time you are out, keep an ear out for
some Japanese rockabilly tunes, I have gathered some killer tracks and am
playing them at all the Robot gigs.